May/June 1998 $2.50
kv1
' OUTDOORS
I
Our Point of View
Fishing remains one of this nation's most popular outdoor recreation activities. A recent national
survey ranked fishing first among men, ahead of golf and swimming. In Montana, we trail only Alaska
in the number of anglers per capita.
It appears, though, that the number of young anglers is declining in Montana. Some blame it on the
large number of single-parent families. Others think it may be a lack of opportunity. Still others believe
it is competition with organized sports, lack of free time among parents, or other reasons.
Too often, programs designed to
encourage fishing are put in place
without attempting to find out why
people don't fish. Recent studies,
for example, show that fishing
participation by children in single-
parent families is about the same as
in other families.
In Montana we took a different
approach. First, people told us one
of the most important reasons they
fish is to be with family and friends.
Second, we could see that there was
no single barrier to participation —
for some it was lack of knowledge,
time, or opportunity, or the cost of
getting started.
So we pulled together a
collection of ideas to use in
communities across the state. At the
core was a strong belief that for
these efforts to be effective, they must be embraced by local communities. In our second year that belief
is proving true.
Schools, volunteer instructors, conservation and community organizations, libraries, and many more
are making "Family Fishing Adventures" our fastest growing program. Whether exchanging ideas over
the Internet, learning about water safety, or catching that first fish — they are experiences long
remembered.
Activities like fishing can be enjoyed for a lifetime. They provide an opportunity to learn, be
challenged, have fun, or just relax. Are we recruiting future anglers? Only if they choose. Turn to Dave
Hagengruber's article on page 15 to find out how you can help reduce the barriers so kids, families, and
friends have a chance to make the choice.
Patrick J. Graham, Director
Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks
The Sun River Canyon is home to one of
the nation' s largest bighorn sheep herds
(page 8).
State of Montana
Marc Racicot /Governor
Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks Commission
Stan Meyer/Chairman
Dave Simpson/Vice Chairman
Darlyne Dascher
Charles Decker
Dale Tash
Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks
Patrick Graham/Director
Dave Mott/Administration and Finance
Conservation Education Division
Ron Aasheim/Administrator
Montana Outdoors Staff
Dave Books/Editor
Bev Veneziano/Art Director
Debbie Stemberg/Circulation Manager
For address changes or other subscription information
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M
ONTAN
OUTDOORS
May/June 1998
Volume 29, Number 3
5\
Features
2 Landscape of Change
by Chris Lorentz
If you like geology, dinosaurs, and wildlife, you'll love Makoshika
State Park.
8 A Wildlife Viewing Tour Guide: Rocky
Mountain Front
by Deborah Richie
From snow geese to grizzly bears, the East Front offers a wealth of
wildlife attractions.
15 Family Fishing Adventures
by Dave Hagengruber
A new program geared toward kids is helping keep Montana's fishing
tradition alive.
19 Rock Creek: A Conservation Success Story
by Ellen Knight
The Rock Creek Trust and its many partners are working to protect
this blue-ribbon trout stream.
25 Perspectives — Bad News Bears
photography by Donald M. Jones
Black bear cubs emerge from their den with a leg up on survival.
Departments
29 CATCHALL — The Glacier Institute celebrates its fifteenth birthday
30 1997 Fish Records— ah fishes great and small
32 FROM THE FlELD— Sunnyslope grayling defy the odds
34 Readers Respond
37 Contributors
COVERS — Black bear cub by Donald M. Jones
Clark's nutcracker by Alan G. Nelson
Landscape of Chance:
MAKOSHIKA
STATE PARK*
...
by Chris Lorentz
THE STARK BEAUTY
of the eastern Montana badlands
conjures up images of the Old
West — Lakota warriors and
cavalry, cowboys and cattle
drives. It's hard to imagine that
this arid region, adorned with
rock sculptures of every imagin-
able shape, was once a humid
jungle populated by dinosaurs,
crocodiles, and strange tropical
plants. The story of Makoshika's
transformation from sea to prairie
is clearly written in the fossil
record — spelled out in crumbling
bones, petrified wood, and plant
impressions in sedimentary rock.
The badlands of Makoshika
are so spectacular that even
before the turn of the century
people advocated setting the area
aside as a park. In 1939, A.J. and
Catherine McCarty made the
dream possible by donating land
for a park to Dawson County. In
1953, Dawson County and the
State of Montana teamed up to
establish Makoshika State Park.
AKOSH
IMS ttll I -.
The rugged terrain and sparse
vegetation make life in the badlands
challenging for man or beast, yet both
have lived here at one time or another.
Until the early 1950s, wild horses
wandered over the badlands. They were
descendents of horses that escaped
from ranches and survived in the rough
breaks where fences are hard to build
and harder to keep. Cowboys who
wanted a sure-footed horse would wait
until late winter when the wild horses
were tired and weak. Only then could a
rider stand a chance of roping one of
these wild steeds.
But long before cowboys chased
wild horses in eastern Montana, early
peoples inhabited the Yellowstone
River Valley. Ancient campsites and
scattered stone tools and projectile
points indicate that nomadic hunters
visited the badlands at the end of the
last ice age. more than 1 1 ,000 years
ago. Ongoing research may someday
tell the complete story of these early
inhabitants of Makoshika.
Wildlife in the park today includes
numerous mammals, songbirds,
reptiles, and raptors, including
Makoshika's mascot, the turkey
vulture. Turkey vultures migrate south
for the winter and return again each
spring. Buzzard Day, a park festival
celebrating these soaring scavengers, is
held the second Saturday of June each
year.
THE MAKOSHIKA
VISITOR CENTER
Located at the park entrance, the
visitor center is Makoshika's nerve
center and the starting point for park
guests. Completed in 1994, it features
interpretive displays on badlands
geology, wildlife, dinosaurs, and early
human history as well as a hands-on
collection of fossils, petrified wood,
and rocks common to the park.
A display called the "Seas of Time"
highlights the vast period when a
shallow sea covered much of North
America. During this time, layers of
sediment thousands of feet thick
accumulated on the ocean floor.
Trapped in the sediments were the
shells and skeletons of plants and
animals such as ferns, cycads, clams,
ammonites, and corals.
The "Age of Dinosaurs," a favorite
exhibit of children and adults alike,
showcases the skull of a juvenile
triceratops and fossil remains from
hadrosaurs (duckbills) and
pachycephalosaurs (boneheads). As the
Cretaceous period ended and dinosaurs
became extinct some 65 million years
4 MAV/JUNi: 1998 MONTANA OUTDOORS
ago, the lush, subtropical landscape
changed. The climate cooled and the
seaway retreated, giving rise to the
Tertiary period and the age of mammals.
The Tertiary period also saw the
first evidence of man in the badlands.
Some artifacts in Makoshika include
charcoal, bone, stone tools, and
projectile points dating back more than
1 1 ,000 years. Evidence from an
archeological dig near Lindsey, 25
miles west of Glendive, suggests early
hunters may have scavenged an
imperial mammoth found on the site.
Carbon-dating places the Lindsey
mammoth's death at more than 1 1 .000
years ago, the approximate time when
man occupied campsites in Makoshika.
The mezzanine level of the visitor
center provides a spectacular view of
the badlands through 30-foot-tall
windows. Exhibits on paddlefish —
strange, ancient fish that still inhabit
the Yellowstone and Missouri rivers —
and related research are also displayed
on this level. Back on the main floor,
the park store features educational
items relating to dinosaurs, geology,
wildlife, plants and, of course,
CHUCK HANEY
MAKOSHIKA
STATE
PARK
Opposite page: The Makoshika
Visitor Center houses interpretive
displays on geology, dinosaurs,
wildlife, and early human history.
Above: Cap rocks are formed
when a hard sandstone cap
protects softer, more erodible rock
beneath. Left: Turkey vultures use
sharp eyes and a keen sense of
smell to seek out carrion.
Makoshika State Park. Travel informa-
tion, park maps, and trail brochures are
also available. A Travel Montana kiosk
provides access to a computer database
of information on everything from road
conditions to special events and
accommodations all across Montana.
ROADS AND CAMPGROUNDS
In 1997, Montana Fish, Wildlife &
Parks (FWP) spent over a million
dollars on roads and facility improve-
ments at Makoshika. The main camp-
ground has been renovated and ex-
panded to accommodate up to 1 1
family units. With more than 40 new
trees and shrubs, the campground is
well on its way to being an oasis in the
badlands.
Makoshika also offers picnic and
camping areas in the upper portions of
the park. Pine-on-Rocks is a pictur-
esque picnic and camping area with
great views of sunsets and sunrises.
MONTANA OUTDOORS may/june 1998 5
Many of the dispersed sites have only
one table and afford opportunities for
solitude and privacy.
AMPHITHEATER
RENOVATION
Makoshika's natural amphitheater
sits in a bowl overlooking Cains
Coulee. Cap rocks provide a grand
backdrop behind the stage, and the
inherent beauty and natural acoustics of
the site make it ideal for theater
productions and church services. The
Friends of Makoshika. a nonprofit
organization formed to assist the park,
has embarked on an ambitious project
to renovate the amphitheater, one of
Makoshika's crown jewels. Improve-
ments will include replacing the plank
bleachers with contour benches and
making the site accessible to the
disabled. The addition of solar electric-
ity for lights, a water system, and new
restrooms will make the amphitheater
the preeminent outdoor facility in the
Glendive area. Once renovated, it will
comfortably accommodate dinner
theaters, church services, weddings,
and educational programs.
of sandstone, bentonite clay, and
mudstone. Along the path interpretive
signs encourage visitors to participate
in hands-on experiments in geology,
sedimentation, and fossil study. A trail
brochure describes the rocks, fossils,
plants, and erosional forces at work in
this unique landscape. A side spur leads
up a ridge to the backbone of a hadrosaur
(duckbill dinosaur) locked in a large
sandstone boulder. A vista at the top of
this spur trail provides a view of Cains
Coulee with Glendive visible in the
distance. The return loop of the trail
wanders among a dozen nest boxes claimed
each spring by mountain bluebirds.
KINNEY COULEE TRAIL
For those who tend toward the path
less traveled. Kinney Coulee Trail is
the place to visit. This hike leads down
to the depths of the Cretaceous sedi-
ments and into some very rugged
country. It's a good idea to take water,
a sack lunch, and plenty of film for the
trek. The trail drops down to the bottom
of Kinney Coulee and through some of
the wildest geology in the park.
LIONS YOUTH CAMP
The Glendive Lions Club owns and
operates a 160-acre youth camp in
Makoshika. The camp features two
lodge buildings with sleeping accom-
modations and kitchen facilities.
Makotahena Lodge has 18 double beds
and space for additional overnight
guests. Outside decks, which are
equipped with tables, benches, and
barbecues, feature panoramic views of
the badlands. Stairs lead down to an
observation deck that is ideal for
watching meteor showers on summer
evenings. Sleepy Hollow Lodge
consists of a historic log building with
separate bunkhouse cabins and a
shower building. The lodge and cabins
sit in a wooded draw that provides
shelter and shade. The Lions Club rents
out these facilities; reservations can be
made through the Glendive Lions Club
at 406-365-2556.
OIL AND CAS RESOURCES
In recent years oil and gas prices
have increased and spurred another
exploration boom in eastern Montana
CAP ROCK TRAIL
The best-known trail in the park is
the Cap Rock Trail, named after a
prominent mushroom-shaped rock near
the trailhead. This half-mile loop trail
provides a close-up look at the geology
and plants of the badlands. Rapid
erosion of soft sedimentary rock has
created countless cap rocks and
pinnacles and a spectacular natural
sandstone bridge. Visitors should plan
on spending close to an hour on this
trail; kids often hike the trail twice
while other family members relax on a
trailside bench and soak in the scenery.
PIANE CABRIEL TRAIL
The Diane Gabriel Trail is dedicated
to the late Diane Gabriel, a Milwaukee
Public Museum paleontologist and
Glendive resident who loved to study
dinosaurs and teach children and adults
about these magnificent extinct
creatures. The trail leaves the camp-
ground in Cains Coulee and follows a
side draw into the badlands. The 1 .7-
mile loop winds through banded layers
LEAVE FOSSILS IN PLACE
Park staff are faced with the paradox of how to educate people about
fossils while preventing them from being carried away by souvenir
hunters. Kids are great, and they
really want to learn about fossils,
especially dinosaur remains.
There is a definite glow in the face
of a child who gets to touch and
hold a dinosaur bone in his or her
hand for the first time. Yet,
everyone needs to be aware that
the fossils in the park are not to
be taken home. The park staff
endeavors to teach people to
enjoy the thrill of discovery, then
leave the fossil in place so the
next person along the trail can
have that same experience.
Visitors who find what looks
like an important fossil should leave it alone and tell the park staff about
what they have found. Usually a staff person or volunteer can view it and
determine if it is a significant find. The staff has looked at a lot of cow
bones and rocks, but sometimes it really fe something important. In some
cases it may take months before a fossil is positively identified.
GARY LEPPART
Fossils like this dinosaur bone should
be left alone for others to enjoy.
6 m « ji ne 1998 MONTANA OUTDOORS
and North Dakota — a boom that has
reached Makoshika State Park. The
geology that created the badlands also
trapped oil and gas deep in the earth.
FWP does not own the mineral rights
under the park — the minerals are
owned by a mix of public and private
entities, including the BLM. Dawson
County, and Montana Department of
Natural Resources and Conservation.
Coordinated management of the publicly
owned minerals within the park is
achieved through an agreement among
these parties.
Oil companies have leased minerals
under approximately 42 percent of the
volunteer Larry Boychuk found some
bone fragments that looked "different"
Park staff could not identify them, and
they sat encased in rock for almost a
year. The next summer, when paleon-
tologists from the Museum of the
Rockies were visiting Makoshika.
Boychuk showed the bone fragments to
Bob Harmon, chief preparator for the
museum. Harmon knew these bones
were not common. While doing some
preliminary excavation, he turned over
a rock beside the bones and found the
complete skull. A man of few words.
Harmon calmly said, "cool."
The skull led to positive identifica-
A Montana National Guard helicopter ferries part of the thescelosaurus skeleton
encased in a plaster jacket — to a waiting trailer.
land within 8,123-acre Makoshika State
Park. Fortunately, advances in oil field
technology allow exploration and even
extraction of oil without impacting the
park. The most promising oil prospects
are in the southwest corner of the park
and can be accessed with directional or
horizontal drilling techniques from
outside the park. FWP is working to
protect the park while still allowing the
legally required access to the potential
mineral reserves under Makoshika.
DINOSAUR DISCOVERY
In the summer of 1996. park
tion of the skeleton. It was a
thescelosaurus. a plant-eating dinosaur
that walked erect on its hind legs. The
find touched off a flurry of excitement
in the scientific community, since a
complete thescelosaurus skeleton had
never been found (all previous informa-
tion was derived from partial skeletons
and a few isolated limb bones). To
ensure public safety as well as protect
the fossil, publicity was kept to a
minimum. The dig site was on a very
steep hillside and the crew was afraid
sightseers would knock rocks loose and
possibly hurt someone.
The 12-foot skeleton was completely
encased in rock, which preserved the
bones but made excavation difficult
and time consuming. The museum crew
worked six or seven days a week for
seven weeks to jackhammer aw ay as
much rock as they dared. Each time a
bone was exposed it was immediately
jacketed in plaster and burlap to protect
it from the flying debris.
After nearly eight weeks of work,
the skeleton was finally free from the
ground. However, the rock, bone, and
plaster jacket weighed nearly 5.000
pounds. Two smaller jackets weighed
about 250 pounds each. The problem
now was finding a way to safely
remove the skeleton from the dig site.
After several weeks of preparation, the
Montana National Guard agreed to
airlift the jacketed bones out of the
ravine as part of a training drill.
On the morning of September 23.
1997. a Blackhawk helicopter lifted the
thescelosaurus skeleton out of the
ravine and onto a waiting trailer. The
bones were taken to the Museum of the
Rockies in Bozeman. where curator of
paleontology Jack Homer and Bob
Harmon will prepare the thescelosaurus
skeleton. Eventually, a display featur-
ing the thescelosaurus will return to
Makoshika.
The thescelosaurus was not the first
dinosaur recovered from Makoshika. In
1990 a research team led by Diane
Gabriel found a triceratops skeleton
while studying dinosaur diversity. This
skeleton, which took two summers to
excavate, was also taken to Bozeman
for preparation at the Museum of the
Rockies. The Friends of Makoshika ran
a fund-raising campaign and paid for
preparation of the skull, which is now
the centerpiece of the dinosaur display
at the Makoshika Visitor Center.
MAKOSHIKA STATE PARK
offers a landscape of unique geology
and exceptional beauty. Visitors can get
a sense of times long past when
dinosaurs walked these lands, or simply
watch the colors of a sunset dance
across the badlands. In the vast, open
space we call eastern Montana.
Makoshika truly is a landscape of
chance. ■
MONTANA OUTDOORS mayauneikw 7
A WILDLIFE VIEWING TOUR GUIDE
ROCKY MOUNTAIN
FRONT
by Deborah Richie
©.
TOUR LENGTH/TIME
300 miles/4-5 days
elena
FROM A DISTANCE, THE ROCKY MOUNTAIN FRONT appears a formidable
reef upon the Grear Plains. Close up, the 150-mile-long East Front spells refuge for everything
from golden eagles and mountain goats to bighorn sheep, long-billed curlews, and lizards. This is
the last place where the grizzly still descends from the mountains to roam the prairie. Here also, elk,
mule deer, and pronghorn feast on grasses that part to reveal travois ruts of the Old North Trail,
once traversed by ancient peoples. Below the surface, excavated dinosaur nests expose a prehistoric
wildlife mecca. In this wild west landscape, it's possible to drift from the twentieth century to 80
million years ago in a single step.
West of the Front lies 2.5 million acres of protected midlands — from the Scapegoat Wilderness
to the south, to the Bob Marshall Wilderness, Great Bear Wilderness, and finally Glacier National
Park to the north.
Wilderness and the Front's network of large private ranches, Blackfeet tribal lands to the north,
preserves, and wildlife management areas merge into one vital wildlife complex.
A 300-mile round-trip journey from Great Falls to the featured eight wildlife viewing areas will
take you into the heart of the Front, to country that inspired Choteau author A.B. Guthrie to name
his famous novel The Big Sky.
Allow at least four days to see all eight sites and a week or more for leisurely exploration. Here's
one possibility for the breathless, four-day version. On day one, drive from Great Falls to Freezout
Lake Wildlife Management Area (WMA) via Highway 89. Then, continue on to Choteau; from
there, head 34 miles north to Dupuyer and turn west to the Theodore Roosevelt Memorial Ranch.
On day two, check out the Blackleaf WMA and canyon west of Bynum. Take the cut-across road
through the Blackleaf WMA south to the Teton River Road and visit Pine Butte Swamp Preserve.
Spend day three in the Teton River country as well, hiking to Our Lake and stopping by Ear
Mountain WMA before joining the guided tour of Egg Mountain. On day four, drive 26 miles
south of Choteau to Augusta and spend the last day at the Sun River WMA and canyon before
returning to Great Falls via Highway 21.
8 MAY/IUNE1998 MONTANA OUTDOORS
DUPUYER
ROCKY MOUNTAIN FRONT
TOUR ROUTE
Black-necked stilt
to MISSOULA J V to HELENA
SNOW COOSE FRENZY AT
FREEZOUT LAKE WMA
The prairie sky glistens with restless white
feathers dipped in ebony each spring and fall.
Migrating snow geese by the hundreds of
thousands touch down at Freezout Lake WMA
to rest on the series of natural and artificial
ponds bisected by U.S. Highway 89 and to feed
in nearby grain fields. During peak migration,
Freezout resonates with the calls of a million waterfowl. In summer, avocets, black-necked stilts
black-crowned night herons, and common terns are among a multitude of birds nesting
here. Stop at the kiosk by the WMA headquarters to pick up a detailed birding guide and
map of Freezout's dike roads open for car and foot travel. Don't miss observing birds close-
up from the accessible viewing blind on the northwest end of the driving tour. Freezout
WMA is open year-round, but best wildlife viewing is spring through fall.
SEASONAL
HIGHLIGHTS
Spring: Snow
geese, tundra
swans, and
ducks migrate;
elk head for
the high
country;
grizzlies
descend to
the prairies;
ground
squirrels and
marmots pop
up from their
dens.
Summer:
Mountain
goats graze
above Our
Lake and
Blackleaf
Canyon;
avocets and
black-necked
stilts raise
chicks at
Freezout;
penstemon,
lupine, prairie
smoke, phlox,
and arrowleaf
balsamroot attract
butterflies; trout rise to
insects; pronghorn race
the winds.
Fall: Bighorn sheep
rams clash in late fall;
waterfowl migrate;
snowshoe hares change
color: sandhill cranes fly
south.
Winter: Thousands of
elk, mule deer and white-
tailed deer gather on
winter ranges; marmots
and pikas
hibernate; coyotes
and rough-legged
hawks hunt for
voles.
MONTANA OUTDOORS may/iuneiws 9
MAKE YOURSELF
KNOWN IN GRIZZLY
BEAR COUNTRY BY
lALKING OR SINGING.
BE ALERT FOR BEAR
TRACKS AND FRESH
DIGGINGS.
PRESIDENTIAL VIEWS ACROSS
THEODORE ROOSEVELT
MEMORIAL RANCH
From a windy ridge overlooking the 6,000-
acre ranch owned by the Boone and Crockett
Club, you can imagine the grinding of glaciers
carving out this verdant valley, today sliced by
cottonwood- and willow-lined Dupuyer Creek.
Interpretive signs at the beginning and end of Theodore Roosevelt Memorial Ranch
half-mile vista trail feature natural and cultural history. As many as 2,800 mule deer and 650 elk
winter on south-facing hillsides. In summer, migratory songbirds, from warblers to flycatchers, nest
in streamside cottonwoods and willows that are home to white-tailed deer as well. Beavers dam the
feeder streams, playing a keystone role in Dupuyer Creek's ecology. Red-tailed hawks hunt for
ground squirrels. The secretive visits of grizzly and black bears, mountain lions, bobcats, and
wolverines come as no surprise in a wild and woolly landscape that's managed both for wildlife and
cattle ranching.
To get there, take Dupuyer Creek Road west for 8.5 miles, keeping a sharp eye for songbirds
and perhaps the shadowy outline of something bigger in the brush. Take the left fork and go south
0.5 mile to a T; go left 3 miles to another T; go right 2 miles to the kiosk and nature trail. The trail
is open to the public, except during hunting season (mid-October to December 1 ). All other access
requires written permission from the tanch headquarters. The road continuing up the North Fork
of Dupuyer Creek to national forest land takes you to outstanding vistas of Walling Reef.
GRIZZLY BEAR J
BY DONALD M. JO
BEARS ON THE BRINK:
BLACKLEAFWMA AND CANYON
Crizzly and black bears venture each
spring from their high mountain dens to
the brink of their range, searching for
greens and winter-killed animals. Blackleaf
WMA is a favorite prairie destination.
Antelope Butte Lake forms an excellent
Blackleaf Canyon observation point for an unlikely, but
possible, sighting of a grizzly in the upper reaches of creek bottoms to the west. The Blackleaf
conserves another chunk of critical winter range for elk and mule deer. The 1 1 ,000 acres of
grasslands, limber pine ridges, and wet meadows sustain jackrabbits, snowshoe hares, Columbian
and Richardson's ground squirrels, thirteen-lined ground squirrels, and yellow-bellied marmots. A
10 MAYflUNElMi MONTANA OUTDOORS
healthy prey base makes a good living for hawks, prairie falcons, golden eagles, coyotes, and weasels.
Along aspen-lined BlackJeaf Creek, look for western flycatchers, Townsend's solitaires, goldfinches,
and red-naped sapsuckers. The county' road ends at BlackJeaf Canyon. Hike the trail through this
narrow cleft below cliffs inhabited by mountain goats.
The WMA is open May 15 to December 1. Take the BlackJeaf Road west from Bynum 14
miles. The road continues four more miles through the WMA to the canyon. Backtrack and take
the cutoff road at the 14-mile mark (directional signs at this junction) to reach the turnoffto
Antelope Butte, and to continue on to the Teton River Road. The cutoff road past the WMA may
be impassable when wet.
TAP INTO ALL YOUR
SENSES— SIGHT,.
HEARING. SMELL,
TASTE AND TOUCH-
TO PARTICIPATE
FULLY IN WILDLIFE \
WATCHING.
Pine Butte Swamp Presen i
ONE IN A MILLION:
PINE BUTTE SWAMP PRESERVE
Rarities grace the 1 8,000-acre Nature
Conservancy preserve where flowing
groundwaters nurture the Front's largest
prairie swamp or "fen. The yellow lady's
slipper, Macoun s gentian, cotton grass.
Craw's sedge, a hybrid minnow, and grizzly
bear are among the ten rarities. Grizzlies
descend to the fen in spring and summer to rear and feed
their young in the company of sandhill cranes, northern
harriers, beaver, and white-tailed deer. Fifty mammal and
ISO bird species inhabit the preserve. Pine Butte stands
sentinel over all, a lone sandstone escarpment sideswiped
by ihe glaciers.
For a sweeping view of the fen and Pine Butte to the
east and Ear Mountain to the west, hike the short A.B.
Guthrie Memorial Trail from the kiosk up to a ridge
where gnarled limber pines testify to winds and weather.
June and July offer the best trailside bird and wildflower
viewing — from mountain bluebirds, savannah sparrows, and long-billed curlews to penstemon,
lupine, prairie smoke, phlox, and arrowleaf balsamroot.
Note that the trail is the only public access allowed on the preserve without a guide (tours and
weekly stays are available through Pine Butte Guest Ranch). Take the South Fork Teton River
Road fork at mile 15 of the Teton River Road, cross the river, and proceed south to reach the kiosk
and trail.
) ellow lady i slipper
$&
LUPINE AND PRAIRIE SMOKE
BY JIM MEPHAM
MONTANA OUTDOORS mm n Ml 1 1
STEER CLEAR OF
NESTS AND DENS.
LEAVE BABY BIRDS
AND YOUNG
ANIMALS WHERE
YOU FINDTHEM.
Mini main goats at Our Lake
MOUNTAIN COATS RULE
OUR LAKE
Wildlife viewers take heart; it would be
an unusual July or August day not to see
mountain goats on the cliffs above Our
Lake. Goat fur and tracks reveal their
presence at water's edge when people are
not present. The 3.5-mile trail to one of
the Front's few alpine lakes leads from
forest to treeless terrain along a well-
maintained, gradual series of switchbacks. Just beyond the trailhead, a pair of interpretive signs
feature mountain goats and alpine wildflowers. In the conifer forest, listen for ruby-crowned
kinglets, golden-crowned kinglets, mountain chickadees, red crossbills, and Cassin's finches. Ravens
and Clark's nutcrackers could well be companions throughout the hike. Once at Our Lake,
remember that mountain goats have first rights here. To preserve this fragile ecosystem, people
must stay on trails, leave wildflowers on the stem, and observe mountain goats from a respectful
distance.
Take the South Fork Teton River Road for 9 miles — past Mill Falls Campground — to the end
of the road. This is also the trailhead for Headquarters Pass.
GRIZZLY GATEWAY:
EAR MOUNTAIN WMA
Between Pine Butte Swamp and the high
peaks, the 3,000-acre Ear Mountain WMA
serves as a spring gateway for grizzly bears.
Here, they can hide in aspen groves and emerge
at night to graze in the open wetlands on
favorite plants like cow parsnip and angelica.
The North Fork of Willow Creek forms a
hidden passage for bears traveling from mountainside to fen and back. Mule deer, bighorn sheep,
black bears, raptors, and songbirds also find shelter here. The summit plateau of Ear Mountain, just
beyond the WMA, harbors a vision quest site and overlooks remnants of the prehistoric Old North
Trail. The 8, 380-foot sacred peak presides over one of the few places left for grizzly bears to follow
their own ancient pathways.
From Choteau, drive south 0.5 mile, turn west on the Bellview Road (at Pishkun Reservoir
sign). Continue past the turnoff to Pishkun Reservoir (5 miles out) and head 17 more miles to the
Ear Mountain
12
mai ii m iotk MON1 \\ 1 OUTDOORS
trailhead. Coming from Our Lake, take the county road through Pine Butte Swamp Preserve, past
the kiosk approximately 3 to 4 miles. Then, turn west at the T and go another 4 miles. From the
public parking area, walk a short way up an old road to a knoll. Scan for bighorn sheep on Ear
Mountain's upper slope in summer. Look for sheep with lambs on lower slopes in spring.
For a longer scenic hike into the WMA, take the South Fork Teton River Road 1.5 miles to a
marked pullout and hike the Bureau of Land Management trail for 1.5 miles to the WMA,
traversing the Front foothills. Remember to avoid unwanted surprises; make your presence known
in bear country. The WMA is open from May 1 5 to December 1 .
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DINO DIGS:
EGG MOUNTAIN
Where the East Front eases toward the
plains, a rather inconspicuous square mile ot
eroded washes and knobs has found its way
to stardom for one reason: dinosaur eggs and
nests — lots of them. In 1978, paleontologist
Jack Horner confirmed a Maiasaura nest here
• u c -i- j k u- u i j j- Dinosaur di? near Eqq Mountain
with fossilized babies that revealed dinosaur * ■»
maternal behavior for the first time. By the mid-1980s, he and his crew chiseled away rock and soil
to reveal entire nesting colonies of dinosaurs that dwelled in a tropical climate some 80 million
years ago. Horner believes the dinosaurs returned year after year to the same nursery. Egg Moun-
tain itself, a mudstone knob, is chock full of fossilized dinosaur eggs — more eggs than in any other
spot in the world.
The only way to visit Egg Mountain is to take a free afternoon tour hosted by a paleontologist
from the Museum of the Rockies. These tours are available from June 25 to August 20 each
summer. Please respect the private landowners in the vicinity and do not trespass. The Old Trail
Museum in Choteau has information on the exact tour time and where to park.
CHARISMATIC MEGAFAUNA OF
SUN RIVER WMA AND CANYON
Up to 2,000 elk depend on the plentiful
grasses and shelter of this 20,000-acre WMA.
Their single-file trails lead here with winter's
advance from all parts of the Sun River drain-
age. By May 15, the public opening date, the
few elk still remaining soon join their brethren
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MONTANA OUTDOORS MAY/JI Nl 1998 1 3
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high in the Bob Marshall Wilderness. In summer, the Sun River
is far from devoid of wildlife. The recorded 55 mammal, 73
bird, 2 amphibian, and 3 reptile species find refuge within 25
habitat types that include three perennial streams and two lakes,
Swayze and Dickens. Summer wildlife viewers might see black
bears, mule and white-tailed deer, and several species of grouse.
Trumpeter swans and tundra swans touch down in potholes
during spring and fall migration.
Farther up the Sun River Canyon, you reach the haven of
one of the country's largest bighorn sheep herds. Late Novem-
ber to early December is the best time to witness the spectacle of
rams vying for leadership on a flat across the river in the Wagner Basin. Look for a marked viewing
area with a sheep interpretive sign. Besides the obvious signs of beaver in the river, keep an eye out
for harlequin ducks that breed along fast-flowing waters.
Take the Gibson Reservoir/Sun Canyon Road 3.5 miles to a fork. Go left 5 miles to the WMA.
Roads lead to the WMA at the southeast corner or 2.5 miles farther west at Swayze Lake. In winter,
elk may be viewed from pullouts outside the WMA and from the main road leading to Gibson
Reservoir and a major trailhead for the Bob Marshall. The WMA is open May 15 to December 1 . ■
FOR MORE INFORMATION ON SITES, CAMPING, RECREATION
OPPORTUNITIES, GUIDED TOURS:
Charlie Russell Country: 1-800-527-5348.
Choteau Chamber of Commerce: 1-800-823-3866.
Montana Wildlife Viewing Guide: by Hank and Carol Fischer, Falcon Press, P.O. Box 1718,
Helena, MT 59624 (1-800-582-2665).
Old Trail Museum: 406-466-5332.
Pine Butte Swamp Preserve: 406-466-5526.
Pine Butte Guest Ranch: 406-466-2158.
Theodore Roosevelt Memorial Ranch: 406-472-3380.
Rocky Mountain Ranger District, Lewis & Clark National Forest: 406-466-5341.
Wildlife Management Areas: 406-467-2646 (Freezout Lake); or 406-454-5840 (FWP Region 4).
14 MAY/JUNE l»8 MONTANA OUTDOORS
Family
Fishing
Adventures
by Dave Hagengruber
Ask most people m Montana, and they'll
tell you that they grew up with a fishing rod
clasped firmly in their hands. Indeed, fishing
is an important component of the quality of
life that we enj oy here in the last Best Place.
5o is it possible for someone to live in a state like Montana
and not grow up fishing with family and friends? Today's
reality is that many youngsters have no opportunity to
experience fishing...to learn this avocation so important
to those of us who call Montana home.
Concerned with this fact, Montana Fish,
Wildlife <i Parks Director Pat Graham
launched a plan in 19% designed to eliminate
barriers preventing new anglers
from getting out on the water.
The program-called "Montana's
Family Fishing Adventures "-has
several components that are
being used to keep Montana's
fishing traditions alive. Here ore. a
few examples:
Hooked On
The next time you visit Red Lodge,
don't be surprised to see kids holding
fishing rods out on the school play-
ground. Last year. Red Lodge public
schools began using the national
"Hooked on Fishing, Not on Drugs"
program in their fourth and fifth grades.
Participating schools receive training
and fishing equipment from FWP.
For teacher Dennis Prewett, the
choice was a logical one. "Responses
from the kids to 'Hooked on Fishing'
have just been outstanding," he says.
"We decided to try this program since
it offers students opportunities long
after they leave our classrooms, not just
during a nine-month school year.
Fishing is a life skill they can enjoy
with their families."
In the "Hooked on Fishing" pro-
gram, fish, fishing, and aquatic re-
sources become a classroom theme.
The field experiences act as a reward
for good performance and behavior,
and serve to motivate.
"It's amazing what fishing can do
for these kids," says Prewett. "It
teaches problem-solving skills, a means
of dealing with peer pressure, and an
opportunity to spend time with their
families and friends, or just as impor-
tantly, alone. Get these kids talking and
learning about fish and the environ-
ment, and they reach a whole new level
of excitement. It's a very effective
teaching tool."
Originally, three Montana schools
tested "Hooked on Fishing" to deter-
mine whether it would be suitable for
use statewide. Based on the results, the
program was expanded to nearly 40
classrooms last fall. About 10 new
schools will be accepted into the
program each year.
free Fbhhg Day
Judy Sander, East Evergreen Elementary School, loads her students into a bus on a cold
January day. "Everyone got their lunches'? Hats? Gloves?" she asks, checking each child for the
essentials. Sander and her fourth-grade class are using the "Hooked on Fishing, Not on Drugs"
program, and this is one of their much anticipated field trips: fishing through the ice at Church
Slough. Their sights are set on yellow perch.
How does Sander, a teacher who admits to having almost no prior fishing experience, manage
to keep track of two dozen excited fourth graders? "Lots of help from parents! I've had good
success attracting parents on field trips — especially those who would never come into a conven-
tional classroom. The free fishing license exemption really is nice — it makes it easier for them
to come along and help out," says Sander. On this day at Church Slough, 1 1 parents are waiting
on the ice to work with her students.
The fishing license exemption Sander refers to is one part of FWP's new "Family Fishing
Adventures" program. Established by the 1997 Legislature, the exemption allows FWP to offer
free fishing licenses to participants at educational fishing events. It's hoped that the one-day
license exemption, which is good only at a specific time and location for those attending an
educational event, will encourage more new anglers to try fishing for the first time.
How did Evergreen Elementary 's ice fishing trip turn out? They caught about 45 perch, and
nobody left their mittens on the bus. Quite a successful trip.
16 \iu ii si r™> Ud\l \\ 1 OUTDOORS
Fbhhg
instructors
Last summer, Don Kelly
volunteered his skills as a fly-tying
instructor at "Kid's Day on the Big
Hole River," combining hooks,
chenille, feathers, and lots of
patience into a day remembered by
all for a long time. For more and
more sportmen's clubs, holding a
fishing clinic for local kids is
becoming an annual event — and a
chance for dedicated volunteers
like Kelly to share their love of
fishing with the next generation of
anglers.
"Kid's Day." held at a ranch
on the Big Hole River near Glen, is free
and open to anyone wanting to attend.
Young anglers spend the morning
rotating through stations that include
casting, aquatic entomology, water
safety, fly-tying, and fish identification.
After lunch, local guides, FWP game
wardens, and instructors load the kids
into drift boats and rafts and take them on
a float down the scenic Big Hole.
The 30 or more instructors for the
event come from all over the region
and represent conservation groups like
Trout Unlimited and the Big Hole
River Foundation. It was Kelly's first
experience as a volunteer. "I've been
flyfishing for 30 years and this looked
like a great way for me to give some-
thing back to the sport," says Kelly. "It
occurred to me that these kids are the
future of our fisheries in this state, and
it's important for them to develop a
respect for the resource at an early age.
This is one way I can make sure that
the people I'll be meeting out there on
the creek in the future have good
ethics."
Kelly was not alone as a fishing
instructor. Last year, more than 200
volunteers helped children and their
families learn to fish in Montana.
Devoted trout anglers belong to
Trout Unlimited. The B.A.S.S. Federa-
tion is out there for bass fanatics. Are
you nuts about walleyes? Go no further
than your nearest Walleyes Unlimited
chapter. But for Montana kids who
love to fish, there hasn't been a group
to join — until now.
"My kids received Pennsylvania's
fishing newsletter for kids and they
absolutely loved it," says John Fraley,
FWP's information officer in Kalispell.
"I thought, why can't we have a club
like that right here in Montana?" With
that thought, the Montana Angling
Youth, or M*A*Y Club, was born.
"Most of the members are pretty
young — from elementary age even
down into preschool," adds Fraley.
"Three times a year they receive the
M*A*Y Club newsletter, and once a
year they get a small package of fishing
supplies. There are no meetings to attend."
DRAWING BY BETHANY MILAN
Since it began last year, the M*A*Y
Club has blossomed to include more
than 2,000 kids. Schools in the
"Hooked on Fishing" program contribute
many of the articles and puzzles for each
issue of the newsletter. Sportmen's clubs
in the Flathead Valley have provided
financial help for printing and mailing
the newsletter; their support, combined
with other grants, has made it possible
for club membership to be free thus far.
"Originally, we wanted to see how
much interest this club would draw in
the northwest part of the state," says
Fraley. Now we're hoping to attract
kids from all over Montana. Any kid
who loves fishing should be a part of
this group."
Montana residents can sign up for
the M*A*Y Club by sending their
name, address, and age to: M*A*Y
Club, FWP, 490 North Meridian Road.
Kalispell MT 59901.
MONTANA OUTDOORS MAY/JUNE 1998 17
FbWngTackfe
Loaner
Program
So what happens if you want to go
fishing, but don't have the equipment?
In Havre, there's a simple answer to
that question: you borrow a rod and
reel from one of the town's tackle
loaner sites.
Operating similarly to libraries,
tackle loaner sites make basic fishing
tackle available free of charge to
anyone who needs it. In Havre,
borrowing a rod and reel is as simple as
signing them out at the front counter of
one of the town's two loaner sites —
Stromberg's Sinclair Station and Bing
& Bob's Sporting Goods. The Havre
Chapter of Walleyes Unlimited helps
maintain the equipment, which FWP
provides free of charge to participating
sites.
Other tackle loaner sites are scat-
tered across Montana, and FWP is
always looking for good locations to
establish new ones. Sort of a network
of fishing libraries, you might say. As
with any library, the success of the
program depends on citizen dedica-
tion— and. of course, no overdue items!
Phil Stewart, former fisheries
manager for FWP's Region 7. is all
smiles as he talks about his latest
success. "Last year we planted some
perch in Cook Lake [Miles City] in
hopes of managing the water as a kid's
fishery. After we got that first batch of
fish in there I was pretty excited — I
really thought we would start seeing
some kids out fishing the pond."
Stewart had no idea just how accurate
his prediction would be.
The dilemma of finding locations to
introduce new anglers to fishing has
been on the minds of Montana's
fisheries managers for some time. In
fact, places like Cook Lake were just
what Jim Satterfield, chief of FWP's
Fisheries Management Bureau, had in
mind when he initiated the "Family
Fishing Sites" program. "For someone
To find out how
to participate or learn more about any aspect
of the "Family Fishing Adventures" program, contact:
Dave Hagengruber
FWP Angler Education Specialist
1420 E. 6th Ave.
Helena MT 59620
406-444-9736.
new to fishing, the most important
thing is to catch a fish — any fish," says
Satterfield. "They don't need a 20-inch
rainbow or a 10-pound walleye. A six-
inch perch works just fine."
For Stewart, the public response to
his efforts has been especially encour-
aging. "I've received more positive
comments over managing that pond as
a kid's perch fishery than almost
anything I've done in my 15 years as
fisheries manager in Miles City," he
says. "Even though the pond only
exists for three or four months each
year [it is fed by water pumped from
the Tongue River and generally goes
dry by October], I was amazed at how
many kids were down there fishing."
Satterfield hopes to find more
locations like Cook Lake. "We've
asked our managers across the state to
develop fisheries for beginning anglers,
particularly ponds that can be reached
by kids walking or riding their bi-
cycles," he says. "We're lucky in this
state to have incredible fisheries
resources, but we need to be sure there
are places where dad or mom can grab
a can of worms and go catch some fish
with their kids."
Phil Stewart, who retired from FWP
in February, sums it up this way: "I just
think it was neat to see a project like
this take off in Miles City. It was
something we needed around here." ■
1 8 may/June 1908 MONTANA OUTDOORS
OCK CREEK:
A Conservation Success Story
A conservation easement on the Castle Rock Ranch is the latest in a series of
innovative land transactions designed to protect the scenery, wildlife, and water
quality of this blue-ribbon trout stream.
by Ellen Knight
KAREN PETERSON and her husband Sam help
run the family ranch in Rock Creek with her father, Jim
Gillies. Karen, who has her own new daughter, Janelle,
remembers sitting on her grandmother's lap as a child. "She told
me she always wanted this land to be here for me," says Karen.
Karen's grandmother, Martha Gillies, and her husband Joe,
homesteaded the Castle Rock Ranch in 1886 when ranches
were just beginning to be carved out of the upper Rock Creek
valley a few miles west of Philipsburg. There, with the
snowcapped crags of the Anaconda-Pintler Mountains for a
backdrop, three generations of the Gillies family have been
ranching ever since. And although times and ranching
practices have changed, Karen's grandmother's wishes have
come true.
Well-known angler-
author Joe Brooks
regularly visited Rock
Creek in the 1950s
and 1960s, helping
solidify its fame.
It's easy to see why the family loves their land — the Castle
Rock Ranch is a spectacular place in the heart of a renowned
watershed. Now. thanks to the Gillies family and the strong
teamwork of the nonprofit Rock Creek Trust and Montana
Fish, Wildlife & Parks (FWP), the ranch will remain whole in
perpetuity. Last October a conservation easement was
finalized to protect the ranch's considerable conservation
values — 1 ,554 acres of open space, dramatic scenery, blue-
ribbon fishing water, riparian habitat with moose and migra-
tory songbirds, and upland grasses that support one of the
finest bands of bighorn sheep in the nation. In addition, the
family can keep right on ranching.
The easement, acquired with a combination of funding
from the Rock Creek Trust, FWP's Habitat Montana pro-
gram, and bighorn sheep auction monies, is held by FWP.
which pleases director Pat Graham. "Montana leads the
nation in acres protected under conservation easement,"
Graham says. "This work couldn't be accomplished by any
single entity, but requires a collaboration of efforts — public
and private partnerships as exemplified by the Castle Rock
Ranch easement acquisition. We are particularly pleased
because this project provides habitat for fish and wildlife,
recreational access opportunities, and the open space that is
so important to the Rock Creek drainage."
He notes the accomplishments of conservation easements
are not measured in ordinary terms but in terms of what you
don't see on the land. In the case of the Castle Rock Ranch,
what you see 30 years or 50 years down the line will not be
much different from what you see there today. This is not the
first time that FWP and the Rock Creek Trust have teamed up
in such an effort. Numerous joint projects over the past
decade have worked to the benefit of Rock Creek.
The story of the Rock Creek Trust's creation and work
make an interesting conservation case study — it has turned
out to be one way to protect a river. For decades. Rock
Creek's fame as a trout fishing stream and wildlife paradise
has inspired landowners, individuals, and conservation groups
to leap to its defense whenever a new threat emerges. Many
groups, like the Montana Fish and Game Association and
Trout Unlimited, have had an ongoing commitment to
protecting the drainage.
Gary Eudaily, a long-time cabin owner in Rock Creek,
remembers when fishing greats like Lee Wulff, Dan Bailey.
Joe Brooks, and Charley Waterman would come to Rock
Creek for a week or more each summer, helping to solidify
Rock Creek's fame. So, it was natural that in the late 1960s,
when the U.S. Forest Service planned extensive logging in
the drainage, that Rock Creek became a hotbed of vigilance
for people with fishing and hunting interests.
Tom Huff, a Trout Unlimited member, put the battle into
perspective. "Of all the fisheries within a reasonable proxim-
ity of Missoula. Rock Creek is the most extraordinary — a
pristine, beautiful, productive fishery. But there was no
mechanism in the Forest Service to listen to concerns. They
hadn't thought about any values other than cutting trees and
didn't know how to cope with public opinion or amenities
like fishing. No one had ever questioned Forest Service
actions. Rock Creek, with its cadre of citizens wanting to
protect fishing, hunting, and water quality, became a key
proving ground for bringing the NEPA [National Environ-
mental Policy Act] process, with its mandate for public
participation, into standard use in the Forest Service."
Huff and Eudaily recall that the final decision in a debate
that raged for three years came down to this: maintaining
Rock Creek's water quality was the bottom line. Any re-
source activities had to be filtered through that screen before
20 MAV/HM 1998 MONTANA OUTDOORS
the Forest Service should allow it.
But as Eudaily points out, "Rock Creek is a place where
you could never let your vigilance down for very long." So in
1984 when huge regional powerlines were planned to cross
the lower part of the drainage, it was not surprising that three
groups quickly galvanized into action and appealed the
proposed routing of the lines across the famous fishing stream
and wildlife habitat in five potential wilderness areas. While
the groups did not succeed in rerouting the lines, the Montana
Wildlife Federation, the National Wildlife Federation, and the
West Slope Chapter of Trout Unlimited came away with
$1.65 million in mitigation monies that would be held in trust
and dedicated to conservation activities in the Rock Creek
drainage.
The settlement agreement created the Rock Creek Advi-
sory Council, whose job it was to evaluate and oversee
expenditures from the fund to further conservation throughout
the Rock Creek drainage. Specifically, the emphasis was to
be on acquiring conservation easements.
The council's membership consisted of representatives of
the three conservation groups plus two landowners and,
because of their support roles during the appeal process, a
representative each from the Department of Natural Re-
sources and Conservation and Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks.
The Rock Creek Trust was originally created as a quasi-
governmental organization administered by the Department
of Natural Resources and Conservation. Although that
arrangement worked well enough, structurally it was confus-
ing— "quasi-governmental" was simply a difficult term to
explain to landowners or anybody else. In 1995 the trust
became part of the Five Valleys Land Trust, a private,
nonprofit land trust housed in Missoula, and the Rock Creek
Advisory Council became, simply, the Rock Creek Council.
The Rock Creek Trust's mission remained exactly the same:
to protect the conservation values in Rock Creek, primarily
through the use of conservation easements.
To date, the trust, either alone or with partners, has
protected over 4,600 acres and 1 1 .5 miles of stream frontage
in Rock Creek. Each easement is different, designed to meet
the needs of the landowner and to protect the specific
characteristics of each piece of land.
"The Rock Creek Trust works only in Rock Creek." says
John McBride. chair of the Rock Creek Council. "We need to
be able to work with all kinds of landowners who have
varying goals if we are to make our drainage-wide conserva-
tion goals work for everyone." He adds that the body of the
trust's work shows how this has been accomplished over the
last decade.
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Thanks to the cooperative efforts of the Rock Creek Trust, its partners, and area landowners, conservation easements now
protect more than 4.600 acres and 1 .5 miles of stream frontage in the Rock Creek drainage.
MONTANA OUTDOORS mayhuni 21
The two earliest projects of the trust were fee title pur-
chases of two of the largest remaining parcels in the lower
drainage. There was serious discussion about whether the
council wanted to own — and manage — property. Given that
there was an important opportunity at hand, however, the
decision was made to proceed. "We decided it would make
sense in the long run to purchase with the intent to pass the
property along to someone else — a private landowner," says
Carol Fischer, the first chair of the council.
So in 1987, the trust purchased 130-acre Spring Creek
Woods in partnership with FWP and a conservation easement
was designed. The protected property was eventually traded
to an upper Rock Creek landowner in exchange for a conser-
vation easement on a large ranch.
The neighboring 244-acre Handley Ranch was purchased
by the trust in 1989. This project involved an innovative
series of transactions — a land trade, the purchase, the creation
of a conservation easement with a life-estate for a family
member who wished to stay on the ranch, and the eventual
resale of the land to a private buyer. Both the Handley Ranch
and Spring Creek Woods are now owned by private individu-
als who have built their own homes on their properties. No
subdivision is permitted under the terms of the easements.
Another key parcel, 164 acres at the mouth of Rock Creek,
was about to be subdivided in 1991. The long-time landowner
was unable to take advantage of a conservation easement for
a variety of reasons. Greg Tollefson. then council chair, was
able to work with new buyers and put an easement in place.
"This turned out to be a 'win-win' situation for the landowner
and the eventual purchasers," recalls Tollefson. "We were
able to bring together a landowner who needed to sell and
conservation-minded buyers who were willing to accept
perpetual restrictions that would assure the protection of the
natural and scenic values so important at the entrance to the
Rock Creek watershed."
In the trust's early days, the Helena-based Montana Land
Reliance was another frequent partner because the trust's
quasi-governmental status prevented it from holding the
easements it obtained. John Wilson, conservation director for
the reliance, helped find buyers for the property at the mouth
of Rock Creek and craft the easement that is in place today.
The trust and Montana Land Reliance also teamed up to
make conservation inroads in the upper Rock Creek drainage.
Bob and Evelyn Neal of the T-Heart Ranch, 30 miles up-
stream from the mouth, took the first step, placing over 900
acres and five miles of Rock Creek stream frontage under
easement in 1992. The Neals, a third-generation Rock Creek
ranching family, are advocates for using conservation
easements in the area to help keep open ranch land produc-
tive. In 1997 they placed another 160 acres of their ranch
along Stony Creek under easement. After some initial
skepticism. Bob Neal has become a strong advocate of private
land protection with conservation easements. "I'm in as good
a position as anybody to speak on behalf of conservation
easements. I encourage others to consider them, too," Neal says.
Two neighboring landowners followed Neal's advice. In
1993 Ed Elliott placed a conservation easement on the 1,364-
acre Rock Creek Ranch, just downstream from the Neal
The Rock Creek
Watershed
m Lakes and Reservoirs
~~j RCT Easement Project*
■ WUdemes» Area*
1 National Forest Lands
f~*"l BLML
■I State Lands
) Plum Creek Lands
Other Private Lands
0 5 10 Mites
64 miles of Rock Creek frontage are in private ownership
Rock Creek is
home to deer, elk,
moose (left), urn/ a
world-class herd
of bighorn sheep
(above).
22 MAI mm 1998 MONTANA OUTDOORS
Since the 1970s, hunters and anglers have rallied to protect Rock Creek from extensive logging and development. In the 1980s,
a $1 .65 million settlement to mitigate powerline impacts led to formation of the Rock Creek Council and Rock Creek Trust.
property. Elliott, a 20-year Rock Creek landowner, wanted to
assure that the important wildlife values of his ranch re-
mained protected and the property intact.
Then Dr. Phil Wright placed an easement on his nearby 34
acres at the mouth of Shively Gulch. Wright, a renowned
ornithologist and Record Keeper Emeritus of the Boone and
Crockett Club, had a deep affection for his place on Rock
Creek and wanted to make sure the aspen grove and the
wildflower meadow with its beaver pond and moose habitat
would always remain as he knew them. Dr. Wright died in
1997, but not before his dream for the property was assured.
The Rock Creek Ranch, Ed Elliott's property, contained
significant timber resources in addition to native grassland
critical to the world-class herd of bighorn sheep that frequent
the ranch. His question to the Rock Creek Advisory Council
was this: Could he put an easement in place to protect the
conservation values and still harvest timber if he should need
the revenue some day?
The council said yes, as long as the timber harvest plan
took into account the needs of the bighorn sheep, elk, and
mule deer, and as long as the plan also considered the
landscape of the adjacent public land proposed for wilderness
designation. Elliott agreed and a site-specific timber harvest
plan was designed for inclusion in the easement.
Financial questions about future use of the land often arise
when landowners consider placing a permanent conservation
easement on their land. Ron Spoon and Jodie Canfield, both
professional biologists, own 58 acres at the confluence of the
East and Middle forks of Rock Creek. They came to the trust
in 1995 wanting to know more about conservation easements
and how they work.
"We were interested in the long-term stewardship of the
biological components, but we were also interested in being
able to live on the land," says Jodie Canfield. "What we
wanted to see was whether the conservation easement would
allow us to do that and also allow us to make a living if we
ever wanted to have a permanent residence in Rock Creek."
Working with Spoon and Canfield, the Rock Creek Council
created an easement that allows a variety of compatible
economic uses while still protecting open space and key
biological elements of the land.
The council has also worked with landowners to protect
smaller parcels of land along the creek, especially in areas
that are subject to intense pressure from subdivision and
residential development. Kim Reineking. one of the current
Trout Unlimited representatives on the council, donated an
MONTANA OUTDOORS may/june 1998 23
easement on his six-acre parcel in the lower drainage in 1996.
Reineking joined four other neighbors (A.J. Michnevich,
Hope and Jock Schwank, Sue and Marcelo Norona, and one
anonymous landowner), to help protect the remaining open
space. "As a council member, I was eager to donate my
easement. I didn't want to see my own parcel further divided,
and I was very pleased to join a number of my neighbors who
felt the same way," Reineking says.
The decision to assist owners of smaller parcels with
conservation easements took the council into new territory,
but it made sense for the drainage-wide conservation goals of
the Rock Creek Trust. McBride, the council chair, explains
the decision this way. "Our attitude toward small parcel
protection is that for the lower drainage it is just about as
Protecting water quality and streamside habitat are essential
in maintaining Rock Creek' s blue-ribbon trout fishery.
important as protecting those larger ranches in the upper
drainage. For years people have come to Rock Creek's
defense. Lower Rock Creek is the entry point for many Rock
Creek visitors. But, because of its proximity to Missoula, it
also has more development. If it becomes thoroughly devel-
oped, we're afraid Rock Creek will lose some of its open
space appeal, as well as some of those dependable advocates
who have been so important in fighting the good fight for the
drainage. While the trust can't protect all the smaller pieces,
we certainly do encourage neighbors to work together with us
to help keep the open feeling in the lower drainage just as
Kim and A.J. Michnevich and their neighbors have done."
Now comes the most recent work of the Rock Creek Trust,
the completion of the easement on the Castle Rock Ranch
with the Gillies family in upper Rock Creek. With 1.5 miles
of Rock Creek stream frontage, including the Willow Creek
confluence, the protection of this 1,554-acre ranch forms a
critical link with lands already protected by conservation
easements immediately downstream.
The family approached the Rock Creek Trust to discuss an
easement on the ranch for a number of reasons: There are
three family member owners and two of them live away from
the ranch, and there were three daughters to consider. It was
time to think about estate planning — how do you provide for
off-ranch family members when your major asset is land?
For families with land, times of transition are often the
time when conservation easements are considered. And then
there was history and a love of the land. Jim Gillies puts it
simply. "Basically, we're trying to keep this land in the
ranching business rather than the subdivision business."
Estate and income tax benefits, combined with partial
payments for the easement, helped solve the problem.
This large project wouldn't have been possible without the
strong partnership of the Rock Creek Trust with Montana
Fish, Wildlife & Parks. Public access, not a requirement in all
conservation easements, was a part of this one. It was key in
obtaining $500,000 from FWP's bighorn sheep permit fund
and $100,000 from the fishing access fund. The trust added
$314,000 portion to the total, confirming protection for the
rest of the ranch.
In addition to the original trust funds, the Rock Creek
Trust has had a generous number of donors, ranging from
individuals and foundations to landowners who have made
significant individual donations as part of the easement
process. As a result, the trust has been able to leverage the
initial funding into far more dollars in on-the-ground conser-
vation.
Although the fund remains healthy today, it has dimin-
ished over the years. Designed as an "expendable" trust, the
money has been spent on getting the conservation work done.
Tom France, an attorney with the National Wildlife Federa-
tion, helped fight the original battle and negotiate the settle-
ment that resulted in the Rock Creek Trust. "We never
expected that this much land protection would have been
accomplished with the funds we obtained. The trust and the
council have been good stewards and the intended goals are
being achieved," France says today.
But a lot of work remains. "Other landowners are inter-
ested," says the council's John McBride. "We're embarking
on a major fund-raising drive and we are always looking for
partners. We still have a number of very specific conservation
goals for Rock Creek, and we intend to achieve them."
According to McBride, those goals are focused on keeping
much of the Rock Creek drainage just as it is today. "Rock
Creek is a remarkable place and is important regionally and
nationally as part of the wild lands that extend all the way
down the Rocky Mountains from Canada to Yellowstone
Park."
People who love Rock Creek agree. ■
Anyone interested in helping protect Rock Creek can
contact the trust at P.O. Box 8953, Missoula, MT 59807, or
call 406-728-284 1.
24 MAY/JUNEI998 MONTANA OUTDOORS
photography by Donald M. Jones
!&jwh£HI
m
;;■.■■»■■■■./•■.
The old saying, "I may have been born in
the dark, but I wasn't born yesterday" ap-
plies— figuratively and literally — to Montana's
black bear cubs when they emerge from
their dens in the spring. Although they are
born bljrid, toothless, and nearly hairless-j
'"fling only about a pound— in mic1
winter, they grow quickly By the time they
leave the den with their mother in April or
May, they weigh about five pounds, have
hair, teeth, and claws, and can run and
climb. Scientists describe them as "active"
and "precocious," but words like rambunc-
*W.V
f^^Ki
-~.2S*
Perspectives
Maturing in the safety of the den for three months gives
black bear cubs a leg up on survival when they emerge
into a world of predators (including other bears) and
spring food scarcity.
Although young cubs can eat plants and insects, they
continue to nurse for several weeks.
26 MAYflUNI 8 MONTANA OUTDOORS
First-time mothers typically give birth to one cub,
but after that two or three cubs are more com-
mon.
MONTANA OUTDOORS may/june 1998 27
Sharp claws and climbing skills
allow cubs to scurry up a tree at
the first sign of danger.
In fact, a tree is a pretty safe place for a nap.
28 MAYflUNEWS MONTANA OUTDOORS
Catchall
Glacier Institute: The First Fifteen Years
In the early 1980s, two people with
a love for the natural environment and
concern about its future met and shared
long-standing dreams of a Glacier
National Park-based institution that
would educate people about the region
and help promote its protection.
Geologist Lex Blood and biologist
Ursula Mattson began shaping the
common vision that became the Glacier
Institute.
Mattson. resident and researcher in
the region since 1961, felt educating
people was a way she could repay the
area for which she had developed a
strong emotional attachment. Blood, a
Flathead resident since 1973, says,
"'Education is so critically important to
bring about understanding and resolu-
tion of conflicts existing in our use of
the natural environment."
With initial support from Glacier
National Park, Flathead Valley Com-
munity College and the Glacier Natural
History Association, the Glacier
Institute became a reality in 1983 and
the following summer nine classes
convened.
Today, the institute enjoys the
support of two additional cooperating
agencies: the Flathead National Forest
and Montana Fish. Wildlife & Parks.
Over 50 adult field courses are offered
each year, as well as teacher work-
shops, youth science camps, and
residential school programs for grades
K-12. From "Glacier's Harlequins" to
"Wild Medicinal Herbs," all institute
programs take participants into the field
to experience firsthand the rich natural
and cultural heritage of the Glacier
area. Two residential facilities, the
Glacier Park Field Camp and Big Creek
Outdoor Education Center, serve as
home base for Glacier Institute programs.
Institute instructors, many of them
internationally known in their field,
include seasonal park rangers, research
biologists and ecologists. artists,
writers, and historians. All have
intimate familiarity with their subjects
and the region.
Volunteers, too, fill a vital niche in
institute activities. A 15-member board
of directors and more than 40 commit-
tee members donate their time and
resources to help further the institute's
mission. In addition, many on-site
volunteers enrich programs with their
unique experiences and talents.
The Glacier Institute offers more than
50 field courses each year to adult
students from around the country.
To help celebrate its fifteenth year,
the Glacier Institute has plans for a
number of anniversary events and
programs. To learn more about institute
courses and this year's activities, write
to P.O. Box 7457. Kalispell. MT
59904; 406-755- 1211 .—Rima Nickell
Montana State Parks Calendar
May
16-17— Flathead Lake Paddlefest
Try different types of sea kayaks at
Flathead Lake State Park, Wayfarers
Unit, in Bigfork. Call 406-752-5501.
17, 23 — Canoe Demo Days at
Frenchtown State Park
Demonstrations with new state-of-the-
art canoes and kayaks take place from
10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.
23 — Bannack Guided Tours Begin
Call for tour schedule: 406-834-3413.
23-24 — Memorial Day Weekend "Loon
and FLsh Festival" in Seeley Lake
Art show, craft sale, guided bird walks,
loon talks, and calling contest.
29 — Evening Campfire Talks begin
at Lewis and Clark Caverns
Talks feature historical and natural
resource topics. Call 406-287-3541.
June
4 — Evening Campfire Programs
Begin at Makoshika State Park
Thursday night talks include paleontol-
ogy, geology, and history. Call 406-
365-6256.
6 — Nature Movies at Lone Pine State
Park Visitor Center
Movies at the visitor center from 10:00
a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
7 — Saturday Night Campfire Talks
at Missouri Headwaters State Park
Programs begin at 7:00 p.m. each
Saturday. Call 406-994-6934.
13 — Buzzard Day at Makoshika
Fun runs, "turkey shoot," nature walks,
and activities for the whole family. Call
406-365-6256.
18 — Makoshika Youth Program for
ages 7-13
Scheduled each Thursday from June 18
through July. Call 406-365-6256.
23 — Discovery Days at Spring
Meadow Lake State Park
Scheduled every Tuesday for seven
weeks. Educational programs for 8 to
12 year olds. Call 406-449-8864, ext.
154.
27 — Evening Campfire Talks Begin
at Salmon Lake State Park
Saturday night talks include historical
and natural resource topics. Call 406-
542-5533.
jacK
^ , lr with his re
Housel, V"> w
his mottled sculpin.
All Fishes Great and Small
by Dave Books
For dedicated angler Jack Housel,
Jr.. of Libby, 1997 was a roller-coaster
ride. On August 1 1 , fishing from his
favorite rock along the Kootenai River
above David Thompson Bridge, he
landed a trout weighing a tad over 33
pounds and measuring almost 40 inches
in length — it looked like a state record
rainbow trout, but was it?
Because rainbow and cutthroat trout
hybridize, the fish had to be genetically
analyzed to determine its taxonomic
status. Either way, Housel's fish was
destined for the record book, because it
exceeded the existing records for both
rainbow trout and rainbow-cutthroat
hybrids. If proven to be a rainbow,
however, Housel's fish would also be a
world record, besting the existing mark
by more than a pound. After two
months of suspense, the word came
back from the lab: rainbow trout.
For the next five months, Housel's
rainbow stood as an all-tackle world
record. But the roller-coaster ride
wasn't over. In February, the National
Fresh Water Fishing Hall of Fame,
which verifies records from its head-
quarters in Hayward. Wisconsin,
accepted a 37-pound rainbow caught in
1947 in Lake Pend Oreille, Idaho, as a
new world record. According to Hall of
Fame officials, new information
emerged to validate this fish. Housel's
rainbow remains as a Montana record
and a world record in the 25-pound line
class.
Interestingly, notes Housel. if it
hadn't been for a treble hook separating
from his lure, he might have broken his
own state record just a few months later
and rendered the world record dispute
moot. Fishing from the same rock, with
the same 1 -ounce Pot-of-Gold lure, he
hooked an even bigger fish. "I fought it
for an hour and a half," he says, "but I
was alone and couldn't get it in the net.
It was at least as big and probably
bigger than my earlier fish."
Like Jack Housel, Bozeman angler
Blaine Grisak made a record catch in
1997. But Grisak's fish, a 0.03-pound
mottled sculpin. would barely have
made a snack for Housel's rainbow.
New to the fish records list, the mottled
sculpin is a native species that lives
primarily in cold streams. According to
A Field Guide to Montana Fishes, by
George D. Holton and Howard E.
Johnson, "sculpins are small, bottom-
dwelling. ..fishes with large, flattened
heads and fanlike pectoral fins."
Celebrating his fourth birthday on the
day he caught his sculpin in Sheep
Creek (Meagher County). Blaine was
fishing with his dad. The 3.9-inch
sculpin fell for a young angler's best
friend — an earthworm.
One other fish was added to the
records list in 1997: the tiger trout. This
unusual hybrid — a cross between a
brook trout and brown trout — has the
markings of a tiger or giraffe. Bozeman
resident Joe Sobczak caught his 4.04-
pound trout on a Woolly Bugger with
maggot while ice fishing in Bear Lake
in the upper Big Hole drainage.
Two other record fish were taken in
1997. Robert Reishus of Dupuyer,
fishing with bow and arrow, edged the
existing carp record with a 39.77-pound
specimen from Eyraud (sometimes
spelled Arod) Lakes. The previous
record was a 38.50-pound fish taken in
1 986 from the same water.
Bainville angler Vernon Pacovsky
stayed close to home to land a state
record white bass. His fish, taken on a
minnow in Bainville Slough, weighed
1.79 pounds, besting the existing record
by more than half a pound. White bass
are not native to Montana but made
their way upstream into portions of the
Missouri River drainage in eastern
Montana from Lake Sakakawea in
North Dakota.
What should you do if you think
you've caught a state record fish? First,
you must catch the fish legally. Second,
you must weigh your fish before
witnesses on a government-inspected
scale such as those found in most
grocery stores. Weighing it as soon as
possible is a good idea, since fish
rapidly lose the precious ounces that
can spell the difference between a
record and a runner-up. Third, an FWP
employee must positively identify the
fish. It's also a good idea to take color
photos of the fish to help resolve any
identification problems.
30 muiMi™ MONTANA OUTDOORS
Montana's Record-Setting Fish ( 1 997)
Species
Weight
Angler
Year Location
Arctic grayling
Bigmouth buffalo
Black bullhead
Black crappie
Blue sucker
Bluegill
Brook trout
Brown trout
Bull trout
Burbot (ling)
Carp*
Channel catfish
Chinook (king salmon)
Cisco
Coho salmon
Cutthroat trout
Flathead chub
Freshwater drum
Golden trout
Goldeye
Green sunfish
Kokanee (salmon)
Lake trout
Lake whitefish
Largemouth bass
Largescale Sucker
Longnose sucker
Mottled Sculpin"
Mountain whitefish
Northern pike
Northern squawfish
Paddlefish
Peamouth
Pumpkinseed
Pygmy whitefish
Rainbow trout*
Rainbow-cutthroat hybrid
River carpsucker
Rock bass
Sauger
Shorthead redhorse sucker
Shortnose gar
Shovelnose sturgeon
Smallmouth bass
Smallmouth buffalo
Stonecat
Tiger muskellunge
Tiger Trout"
Utah chub
Walleye
White bass*
White crappie
White sturgeon
White sucker
Yellow bullhead
Yellow perch
3.21 lbs.
57.75 lbs.
2.33 lbs.
3.13 lbs.
1 1 .46 lbs.
2.64 lbs.
9.06 lbs.
29.00 lbs.
25.63 lbs.
17.08 lbs.
39.77 lbs.
25.89 lbs.
31.13 lbs.
1.46 lbs.
4.88 lbs.
16.00 lbs.
0.31 lbs.
20.44 lbs.
4.90 lbs.
2.91 lbs.
0.56 lbs.
5.94 lbs.
42.00 lbs.
10.08 lbs.
8.16 lbs.
5.06 lbs.
3.27 lbs.
0.03 lbs.
5.09 lbs.
37.50 lbs.
7.88 lbs.
142.50 lbs.
0.64 lbs.
0.95 lbs.
0.16 lbs.
33.1 lbs.
30.25 lbs.
3.50 lbs.
0.57 lbs.
8.81 lbs.
4.68 lbs.
3.06 lbs.
13.72 lbs.
6.10 lbs.
32.63 lbs.
0.54 lbs.
27.00 lbs.
4.04 lbs.
1.81 lbs.
16.38 lbs.
1.79 lbs.
3.68 lbs.
96.00 lbs.
5.33 lbs.
0.84 lbs.
2.37 lbs.
Frederick C. Dahl
Craig D. Grassel
Darwin Zempel. Jr.
Al Elser
Doug Askin
Brent Fladmo
John R. Cook
E.H. "Peck" Bacon
James Hyer
Jeff E. Iwen
Robert Reishus
Gordon Wentworth
Tom Hilderman (tie)
Carl L. Niles
Jim Liebelt
Irven Stohl
William D. Sands
Matt Sloat
Richard C. Lee
Carl Radonski
Vance "Bubba" Kielb
Roger Fliger
Forrest Johnson
Dave Larson
Theo Hamby
Juanita A. Fanning
Loren Kujawa
Ray Quigley
Blaine X. Grisak
Mervin "Frog" Fenimore
Lance Moyler
Darrel Torgrimson
Larry Branstetter
Gordon Stewart
Tim Colver
Orlin Iverson
Jack Housel. Jr.
Pat Kelly
James Jessen
Don Holzheimer
Gene Moore
Ray Quigley
John Johnson
Sidney L. Storm
Mike Otten
Richard Liesener
Dale Bjerga
Dan Dupea
Joe Sobczak
Eugene Bastian
Steven McMorris
Vernon Pacovsky
Gene Bassett
Herb Stout
Fred Perry
Mike Vaughn
Vernon Schmid
1994
Handkerchief Lake
1994
Nelson Reservoir
1994
Lower Flathead River
1973
Tongue River Reservoir
1989
Yellowstone River (near Miles City)
1983
Peterson's Stock Dam
1940
Lower Two Medicine Lake
1966
Wade Lake
1916
unknown
1989
Missouri River (near Wolf Point)
1997
Eyraud Lakes
1984
Fort Peck Reservoir
1988
Fort Peck Reservoir
1991
Fort Peck Reservoir
1990
Dredge Cut Trout Pond
1973
Fort Peck Reservoir
1955
Red Eagle Lake
1996
Missouri River (Fred Robinson Bridge)
1987
Fort Peck Reservoir
1993
Lightning Lake
1989
Irrigation canal (west of Malta)
1991
Castle Rock Reservoir
1976
Pishkun Reservoir
1979
Flathead Lake (east shore)
1995
Lower St. Mary Lake
1984
Milnor Lake
1996
Kootenai River
1988
Marias River
1997
Sheep Creek (Meagher Co.)
1987
Kootenai River
1972
Tongue River Reservoir
1991
Noxon Rapids Reservoir
1973
Missouri River
1991
Ashley Creek
1985
Milnor Lake
1982
Ashley Lake
1997
Kootenai River (David Thompson
Bridge)
1982
Ashley Lake
1991
Yellowstone River near Terry
1989
Tongue River Reservoir
1994
Fort Peck Reservoir
1985
Marias River near Loma
1977
Fort Peck dredge cuts
1986
Missouri River
1996
Fort Peck Reservoir
1994
Nelson Reservoir
1996
Milk River
1994
Lebo Lake
1997
Bear Lake
1992
Canyon Ferry Reservoir
1996
Cooney Reservoir
1997
Bainville Slough
1996
Tongue River Reservoir
1968
Kootenai River
1983
Nelson Reservoir
1996
Corner's Bass Pond
1988
Ashley Lake
*New Montana record for 1997
*New to Montana's record list
From the Field
Sunnyslope Grayling Defy the Odds
by Bruce Auchly
Region 4 Information Officer
Conservation Education Division
Imagine a pair of grizzlies living in
an urban backyard. Imagine pallid
sturgeon flourishing in a rancher's stock
tank. Imagine Arctic grayling surviving
year after year in an irrigation ditch.
Okay, forget the first two as flights
of fancy. But the last improbable
scenario is true. A sparse yet self-
sustaining population of Arctic grayling
has survived for decades in the
Sunnyslope Irrigation Canal. The
canal spills out of Pishkun
Reservoir, which lies between
Choteau ^^^
and
Augusta
along the
East Front
of the
Rockies,
and runs
32
miles to
Fairfield.
Greenfields
Irrigation District operates the canal,
which serves the farms and ranches of
the Fairfield bench.
"The grayling are unique in the fact
that they exist," Scott Barndt says.
Currently with the U.S. Fish and
Wildlife Service in Washington, Barndt
earned his master's degree in 1996
from Montana State University (MSU)
studying the Sunnyslope grayling.
"They are the only known population
that has been started from scratch in at
least a partially fluvial, or river,
environment."
The Arctic grayling is one of the
odder citizens of the freshwater fish
world. Sometimes mistaken for its
lowly cousin the mountain whitefish. it
has a small, slender body. The current
state record grayling, caught in Hand-
kerchief Lake near Columbia Falls,
weighed 3.21 pounds. But atop the
grayling's sleek, silver-flecked body
sits a large dorsal fin swathed in
iridescent shades of blue and green,
even tinges of pink and orange. The
male grayling's back fin looks as out of
place as a tie-dyed sail on a Confeder-
ate blockade runner. Yet the colorful
back fin serves its evolutionary goal —
procreation.
Barndt says the male's dorsal fin
serves three purposes: to ward off rival
males, attract spawning females, and
hold females during
spawning. When
ILLUSTRATION RY GLENN WEST
male grayling are setting up their
territories before spawning, they
elevate their fin to impress and scare
competitors. Once in place, the males
hope to attract females to their territory.
"Males will display their fin and hope
that the bigger females with a better
chance of survival will respond,"
Barndt says. In the fish world, bigger
females are good. They produce more
eggs, and they have survived several
growing seasons, an indication of good
genes. And luck, too. Finally, when a
female comes alongside a male to
release her eggs, the male will fold his
dorsal fin over her to hold her, then
release his sperm to mix with the eggs.
The purpose of the female Arctic
grayling's oversized dorsal fin is less
clear. While it is not as big as the
male's, it is still larger than that of
other members of the trout family. If it
is for swimming in strong currents,
then for seven months of the year in the
Sunnyslope Canal, the grayling's tall
dorsal is about as useless as, well, a
fish out of water. That's because from
October through May the canal's few
hundred grayling live in 13 pools and
puddles fed by a trickle of water
leaking through the canal gates in the
reservoir dike and from springs in the
canal bed.
"Thirteen pools remain through the
winter after the canal is shut down,"
Barndt says, "During harsh winters
only eight remain viable. And I only
documented [grayling in] four."
The pools lie in the first 3.6 miles
of the 32-mile canal.
The four main
pools that
hold
grayling
have a
combined
length of 376
yards and range from 9
to 33 inches deep in late winter.
Those fish that make it through the
winter (and a high percentage do)
find water, water everywhere by the
middle of May when the irrigation
district turns on the tap. At a maximum
flow of 1,677 cubic feet per second
(cfs) the canal has a flow equivalent to
the lower Madison River in summer.
"We're not talking about some little
ditch," says Cal Kaya, MSU biology
professor and Barndt's advisor. "We're
talking about a large volume of water."
In the five brief months of abundant
water, the Sunnyslope grayling must
reproduce and the offspring must
survive, grow, and prepare for the
coming winter crammed into aquatic
tenement houses. "Grayling in the
Arctic do very similar things," Barndt
says. "They'll move hundreds of miles
between river systems. Then, fish from
different populations and different rivers
will converse and overwinter at the same
32 may ji ni 1998 MONTANA OUTDOORS
Tiny radio transmitters (below) implanted in Arctic
grayling allow researchers to monitor movements and
spawning behavior. At left, Scott Barndt radio-tracks
grayling in the Sunnyslope Irrigation Canal as part of
his master's degree project at Montana State University.
spring. In the Arctic, rivers will freeze
solid except at these springs."
The Arctic grayling, a native
Montana member of the trout family,
was first described by Lewis and Clark.
Worldwide there are four grayling
species: one in Europe, two in Asia,
and the Arctic grayling, which once
ranged from Siberia to Alaska through
much of Canada and south into Michigan
and Montana. The Michigan grayling
population became extinct by 1936.
Isolated by glaciers 12,000 to 15,000
years ago, Montana's grayling popula-
tion held sway in rivers and streams in
the upper Missouri River drainage
above the Great Falls. Most lived in the
Gallatin, Jefferson, and Madison rivers
and their tributaries and a few remote
locations like the Smith and Sun rivers.
Lake-dwelling grayling existed only in
upper and lower Red Rock lakes and
possibly Elk Lake, near the headwaters
of the Red Rock-Beaverhead drainage.
Man reversed that situation this
century by altering habitats, overhar-
vesting, and introducing competing
non-native salmonids, such as brook,
rainbow, and brown trout. Currently,
Montana's Arctic grayling stronghold
consists of populations in about two
dozen lakes. The only self-sustaining,
river-dwelling population lives in the
upper Big Hole River and lower parts
of its tributaries; it is genetically and
behaviorally distinct from its lake-
dwelling cousins. Plans are afoot,
however, to expand the state's river-
dwelling grayling, using broodstock
from the Big Hole River.
"We want to have five riverine
populations by the year 2020," says
Chris Hunter, fisheries special projects
bureau chief for Montana Fish, Wildlife
& Parks (FWP). Last year, FWP
fisheries workers planted about 30.000
grayling in the upper Ruby River and
plan to do the same this year. "Hope-
fully, we'll do the same in the Sun
River this year, too," he says.
Another stocking effort may take
place in Cherry Creek, a tributary of the
Madison River. "We are currently
looking at getting rid of the creek's
non-natives and reintroducing
westslope cutthroat trout and grayling,"
says Hunter.
If all these current efforts are
successful — Big Hole, Ruby, Sun, and
Cherry — FWP's Fisheries Division still
has to come up with a fifth stream for
reintroduction by 2001 in order to meet
the 2020 goal. "To demonstrate we are
making progress by 2020," Hunter
explains, "we need to monitor them
over several years."
The upper Big Hole River in the
summer is low, warm, and "deoxygen-
ated," Barndt says. The reverse is true
in the canal. In the summer, the water is
high and full of oxygen, then low in the
winter. "When water in the canal is
low, the temperature is low also, but
the oxygen is not too low. At low
temperatures, grayling can withstand
pretty low dissolved oxygen levels."
"From October to May," adds
MSU's Kaya, "they are really living in
what amounts to a series of small ponds."
Grayling got into the canal from
Pishkun Reservoir. The reservoir was
stocked at least seven times from 1937
through 1943. It's not known how long
it took the species to become self-
sustaining in the canal, but in 1971 an
FWP fisheries biologist reported
grayling there.
Even though the canal's grayling
have water and oxygen at the right time
of year, they must still avoid competi-
tion and predators, mainly from
rainbow trout and northern pike.
Historically, Arctic grayling in Montana
only had to live with 10 other fish
species, including two salmonids —
westslope cutthroat and mountain
whitefish. The introduction of rainbow,
brook, and brown trout brought in
competition grayling had not evolved with.
Rainbows compete with grayling for
spawning areas and food. In the upper
Big Hole River, grayling are hanging
on in part because they have little
competition. In the canal, salmonid
competition is also scant because of the
absence of the right gravel for rainbows
to build spawning nests, or redds.
"Grayling have the least stringent
MONTANA OUTDOORS may/june iws 33
spawning requirements of the salmo-
nids," Barndt says. "They don't build
redds. They broadcast spawn."
Northern pike, as the grayling's
main predator in the canal, would
appear to have an ideal banquet in the
winter when all fish are confined to
small pools. But northerns don't spend
the winter in constricted pools with
grayling. In two falls and three springs
of netting the canal. Barndt found only
eight adult rainbows and eight adult
northern pike. He did, however, capture
more than 100 juvenile northern pike.
The few adults indicate those juveniles
don't overwinter. "Northern pike get
flushed out of the system," Kaya says.
"If that were not the case, I think this
small grayling population would have a
hard time surviving."
For anclers who would like to catch
a grayling, nearby Tunnel Lake
provides a good fishery. FWP fishing
regulations forbid keeping any grayling
caught in the canal, though the daily
and possession limit of rainbow trout is
five. For northern pike the daily and
possession limit is 10.
Barndt studied the canal's grayling
to see if the population is self-sustain-
ing and how it survives, yet his findings
could have larger implications. "The
fact that they are found in such tough
conditions," says Jim Magee, FWP's
grayling biologist, "may make us think
twice about how tough a species they
are. They may survive in those really
marginal areas we had ignored earlier."
Last year Magee took a look at the
feasibility of the Sun River to hold
grayling and helped stock the fish in
the Ruby. It was also a good year for
grayling in the Big Hole River. "We
had our best population since 1983," he
says. Last year's count was 96 grayling
per mile (fish 1 year old and older).
Back in 1983, the population was 1 1 1
per mile in the Big Hole. The low point
came in 1989 at 22 fish per mile.
The key in the last three years has
been plenty of water and little competi-
tion from brook trout in the Big Hole.
Magee says. "Brook trout and grayling
are using different micro-habitats."
That fits in nicely with some of
Barndt 's findings: Grayling do best in
streams with low densities of compet-
ing fish and low gradient, or slope. Is
that a recipe for another canal? "If you
could find another one with sufficient
winter habitat." Barndt says, "and cool
enough temperatures in late summer.
I'd say go for it."
Readers Respond
Opportunities for Disabled Hunters Appreciated
After scraping the moss and mildew
from my word processor I wish to
express my feeling on your article,
"Meeting the Challenge" (November/
December 1997).
While I am not a paraplegic yet,
after my accident in 1984. having my
whole left side racked-up. the permit
given to hunt from a vehicle did extend
my ability to hunt [in Montana] until
my move to Washington.
Making it possible for the disabled
to continue and enjoy hunting extends
the value of life that non-disabled
enjoy. I wish to thank those who assist
as well as FWP for the extension of this
tradition. If I return to Montana and
hunt, it just may be in a wheelchair! —
dairy L. Preston. Shelton, Washington
I enjoyed reading "Meeting the
Challenge" by Alan Charles in the
November/December issue. When I
retired from FWP. the department was
just starting a program for hunters with
disabilities. The department has come a
long way with this program.
I continue to enjoy Montana
Outdoors. Keep up the good work. —
Leonard Cliristensen. retired game
warden. Kali spell
Photo Issue Stellar
Congratulations on yet another
stellar photo issue (January /February).
The photography is magnificent, the
layout imaginative, and the text
colorful and thought-provoking.
The interweaving of the title with
the buck's antlers on the cover is a
subtle but clever touch worthy of
recognition. Keep up the good work! —
Bob Jones, Missoula
Landmark Solution
I have a possible solution for the
Marine sergeant major who wrote to
make you aware of his difficulty in
locating Montana landmarks pictured in
Montana Outdoors. I had the same
problem until I acquired a copy of the
Montana Atlas and Gazetteer published
by DeLorme Mapping. P.O. Box 298,
Freeport. ME 04032. Problem solved!
By the way, MO is a great publica-
tion. I really enjoyed "The Dairy Queen
Bear" (March/April issue). — TO.
Dissinger, Centre Hall. Pennsylvania
Bon Appetit!
I have recently discovered a cook-
book you put out called Savoring the
Wild, and was wondering if you had
any current editions for sale. Hungrily
awaiting your reply. — Kevin Hennessy.
Chesapeake. Ohio
First published by Montana Fish.
Wildlife & Parks in 1974. Savoring the
Wild was out of print for many years.
Fortunately for hungry hunters and
anglers like yourself. Falcon Press
revised and reprinted it a few years
back. It is available for $8.95 plus
$3.00 shipping and handling from
Falcon Press. P.O. Bo.x 1718, Helena.
MT 59624 (1-800-582-2665).— Editor
34 may/june 1998 MONTANA OUTDOORS
MONTANA OUTDOORS
Show your wild side
For the first time, Montana Outdoors is offering quality
clothing and gift ideas for the outdoor enthusiast in your
life. With the distinctive detailing featured on the shirts
and caps, we hope to reflect a love of nature while
perpetuating respect for Montana 's wildlife and the
knowledge that we share a responsibility to protect and
conserve our wildlife heritage. Proceeds from the sale of
these items will further the efforts of conservation
education.
Get to the Point
... in the antlered embroidered detail of this wildly
accented Henley. Adaptable and versatile, just as a mule
deer can be, this preshrunk, 100% cotton, long-sleeve
shirt can be worn alone or as a base for layering. Henley
available in natural, leaf (shown), lake, navy, black, and red
in sizes M, L, XL. ITEM #1301-6 $29.95
InVESTment in Adventure
Made in Montana and as rugged as it needs to be. The
lining of this vest is non-pilling polyester fleece, with a
windproof, water-repellent nylon shell that looks, feels,
and breathes like cotton. Vest available in black, with
embroidered Montana Outdoors logo, in sizes M, L, XL,
XXL. ITEM #6530-1 $58.95
Hooked on Comfort
. . . and classic good looks, this durable denim is the perfect attire for telling about
the one that got away. Button-down collar, 100% cotton, and generously cut for
comfort, this shirt comes with fish and fly embroidered detail. Blue Denim Shirt in
sizes S, M, L, XL. Natural Denim Shirt (not shown) in sizes M, L, XL. (sorry, small
not available in natural denim). ITEM #1901-4 $39.95
Fit to a Tee
Almost as good as a hole-in-one, the pure-cotton comfort of this tri-colored golf
shirt will have you ready for a day on the links or the easy chair. With contrasting
collar, cuffs and placket, this 100% combed cotton pique Golf Shirt is available
in forest green/wine/navy, wine/forest/navy; and royal/watermelon/jade. Comes with
embroidered Montana Outdoors logo in sizes M, L, XL. ITEM #1202-1 $36.95
TO ORDER, CALL
1-800-727-2744
Pho
nd tax orders VISA and MasterCard only
Man j Best Friend
Pheasant and hunting dog detail this pro-style cap. With an adjustable plastic strap,
the Cap is available in two-tone combinations- dark green/khaki; dark caramel/dark
green; dark green/navy; and gray/black One size fits all. ITEM #2302-5 $14.95
Reelin ' in Montana Moments
This low profile, soft-crown cap detailed with a dry fly and rainbow trout has an
adjustable fabric strap with brass buckle. Cap is available in green, charcoal, navy,
or two-tone [navy visor and khaki crown). One size fits all. ITEM #2101-4 $14.95
Call of the Wild
Our traditional golf style cap is poly/cotton twill with mule deer embroidered detail. The cap has matching braid and an
adjustable fabric strap with sliding zipper. It's available in dark green, black, or royal. ITEM # 2202-6 $14.95
Logo
Details
Chipmunk Chic
A precocious chipmunk sits on a Montana Outdoors logo in intricate embroidered detail. This
100% cotton T will keep you cool and comfortable on your next outdoor adventure. Preshrunk
shirt available in ash, red, royal, and black in youth sizes 6-8, 10 12, 14-16. ITEM #1101-3 $13.95
Adult sizes S, M, L, XL. ITEM #1102-2 $15.95
All garments machine wash and dry.
M
Sold to:
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Contributors
Lorentz
""East-
ern
Montana's
Makoshika
State
Park,"
says
Chris
Lorentz,
"offers a
landscape
of unique
geology
and
exceptional beauty." Located just
outside of Glendive, this badlands site
also has a fascinating history — 70
million years ago it was a humid jungle
populated by dinosaurs, crocodiles, and
tropical plants — just the opposite of the
arid climate of today. In his article.
"Landscape of Change" (p. 2). Lorentz
describes the park's geology, dinosaur
discoveries, wildlife, and recreational
attractions. A Parks Division employee
assigned to FWP's Miles City region,
Lorentz is manager of Makoshika.
The 150-mile-long Rocky Mountain
Front offers sanctuary for all of
Montana's big game animals, plus a
rich tapestry of small mammals, birds,
reptiles, and amphibians. Throw in
spectacular scenery, dinosaur history,
and rare plants, and you have the
makings of a fantastic wildlife viewing
tour. In her article beginning on page 8.
Deborah Richie describes the East
Front's natural attractions in detail,
concentrating on four wildlife manage-
ment areas, a Nature Conservancy
preserve, a ranch owned by the Boone
and Crockett Club, a dinosaur dig. and
a pristine lake in the Lewis and Clark
National Forest. Owner of Deborah
Richie Communications in Missoula,
Richie is a wildlife interpretive
specialist who writes often for Montana
Outdoors.
Is it possible to live in Montana and
not grow up fishing with family and
Hagengruber family
friends? Unfortunately, the answer is
yes, says Dave Hagengruber, and
that's why FWP has instituted some-
thing called "Family Fishing Adven-
tures" (p. 15). This program, designed
to eliminate barriers that keep new
anglers from getting out on the water.
has several components: a fishing club
for youngsters, a tackle loaner program,
fishing ponds in towns and cities, a
school program called "Hooked on
Fishing. Not on Drugs." fishing clinics
for kids, and a free fishing day for
parents. Hagengruber is FWP's angler
education specialist in Helena. To learn
more about Family Fishing Adventures
and how you can become involved, call
him at 406-444-9736.
There
are more
than three
dozen
"Rock
Creeks" in
Montana,
but only
one with a
national
reputation
as a blue-
ribbon trout
stream and
conservation battleground. When
flyfishermen talk about Rock Creek,
they mean the one that originates high
in the Anaconda-Pintler Mountains and
winds its way to the Clark Fork River
near Missoula. Made famous by anglers
*l
Knight
like Joe Brooks and Dan Bailey in the
1950s and 1960s and saved from
extensive logging and development
through the vigilance of hunters,
anglers, and conservation organiza-
tions. Rock Creek is a case study in
trout stream preservation. In recent
years, says Ellen Knight, conserva-
tion easements negotiated by the Rock
Creek Trust, its partners, and area
landowners have protected more than
4,600 acres in the Rock Creek drainage.
For a glimpse into Rock Creek's
colorful history and a summary of
present-day conservation strategies,
turn to her article beginning on page
19. Knight is director of the Missoula-
based Rock Creek Trust, a nonprofit
organization dedicated to protecting
conservation values in the Rock Creek
drainage.
MO thanks the following artists,
photographers, and organizations for
their contributions to this issue: Ste\ en
Akre, Ulm: Denver Bryan and Bob
Harmon/Museum of the Rockies.
Bozeman; Malinda Crawford and
Michael Javorka, Kalispell: Gene
Fischer. Libbv Gurnett, John
Lambing, and the Montana Histori-
cal Society, Helena; Chick Haney,
Whitefish: Larry Javorsky and
Rebecca Javorsky, Hamilton: Donald
M. Jones, Troy: Gary Leppart and
Glenn West, Billings; Jim Mepham,
Choteau; Bethany Milan. Creston:
Neal & Mary Jane Mishler, Rich-
ard Moisel, Alan G. Nelson, and
Rodney Schlecht, Great Falls; John
G. Obrey, Jr., Salt Lake City, UT;
Lance Olsen, Glendive: Rock Creek
Tri st/Mic hael Gallagher. Missoula:
Cynthia Spence. Aurora. CO; and Al
Troth. Dillon. Thanks also to the
following employees who work for the
department: Brcce Aichly, Great
Falls: Dane Hacencriber. Helena:
Jerry Walker, Bozeman; and Ron
Wiley, Glendive.
Ml :\l \\ Mil WOORS mi ii .1 37
Sraial^
7 l,l44040"88810'" 4